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Anchovy & Squash Blossom Tagliatelle

Anchovy & Squash Blossom Tagliatelle

So I went to Italy recently and ate lots of good food and a few of those things were anchovy pizza. One of the best of the several versions I ate was a white pie with whole anchovies and squash blossoms. The taste of squash blossoms are pretty subtle and anchovies are not–understatement–but the former provides texture and the latter does the work on flavor.

Something I did not get to eat but sounded killer was tagliatelle with squash blossoms and botarga. Botarga is dried, aged fish roe, which issomething salty and fishy to pack a punch. Been looking for it since I got back home but the Italian Market came up empty and other leads fizzled out. Bummer. Anchovies make a decent enough substitute in a pinch.

I did get some squash blossoms, from my mom’s garden. Dudes, my mom’s garden! The farmers market is a bourgeois indulgence as far as produce needs go. Looking forward to cooking with all the other stuff when it starts coming in.

In the meantime, we have this dish.
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Posted by on June 22, 2012 in dinner, fry, Inspiration, quick, recipes, sautee

 

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Beef Curry Tagliatelle

Beef Curry Tagliatelle

Just got back from Italy where I ate a lot of good noodles. One of the best dishes I had was tagliatelle with sea urchin, dressed simply with butter, garlic, black pepper & parsley. It was darn good. There was also a bunch of other stuff but this was tops. So, tagliatelle: slightly wide noodle that goes well with meat sauces. I hit up local Italian specialty shop Severino for some of their dried pasta; their product is some of the best if you opt not to make it yourself.

The other life thing happening now that contributed to this was taking part in a cow share. (Vinny is in on it too.) A cow share is, perhaps a bit obviously, where a bunch of people divvy up a whole cow. I received a bunch of cool meat, the bulk of which was ground beef.

Again on the subject of Italy. After returning home from the trip, I immediately hit up Italian Market for cheeses and butters. Among the spoils of this shopping excursion was baked ricotta, with a texture similar to paneer cheese. With that thought, the inspiration for beef curry tagliatelle, which is pretty much Indian saag paneer recast as a bolognese sauce for pasta.

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Posted by on June 8, 2012 in boil, dinner, fry, quick, recipes, sautee

 

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Guest Post: Syrian Style Baklava

Guest Post: Syrian Style Baklava

During my recent trip to Canadia, I learned this baklava recipe.  I had a pretty insane reaction to it.  You could say I was eating it the way zombies go for brains.  Anyhoo, I knew that I had to feature it and fortunately, my friend’s wife was able to share the recipe.  Without further delay, I present to you Holly’s Syrian Style Baklava.

Holly writes:

I have never met anyone who doesn’t love this baklava. People who say they hate baklava try one piece and their eyes cross and then I have to hide the rest of the pan. People who swear that honey and rosewater make them gag, that they can’t stand pistachios, that baklava is just too rich or sticky or soggy or whatever, they love this baklava. I went through a four-month stretch where I was not allowed to show up at a social function without this baklava. It’s really good, is what I’m saying. Crisp layers of golden pastry, filled with fragrant walnuts and cinnamon, and oozing sugar syrup. Oh my God. It tastes like Christmas with extra butter.

The secret is, it’s also really easy, if a little tedious. And it’s pretty forgiving. I routinely forget the sugar syrup ratio or mess with the spices, I usually use salted butter, and I hand-chop the walnuts if I don’t have access to a food processor. This baklava will make you look like a rockstar at your next dinner party. It is a total ace-in-the-hole kind of recipe. I stole it from my mother, who learned it from a Greek friend, but we actually think it may be Syrian-style. There’s no honey, and the lemon and cloves cut the sweetness just enough. The recipe below is the original, with my annotations. The only special equipment you’ll need is a pastry brush.

Make this baklava, you will not be disappointed.

Note from Holly: Powdered cinnamon is just fine if that’s all you have. I also sometimes toss in a few cloves.

Note from Holly: You can find fillo (phyllo, filo) dough at most supermarkets in the frozen foods aisle, usually near the puff pastry and Sara Lee. It thaws in a few hours in the refrigerator, which is best, or you can thaw it in about an hour on the countertop if you’re desperate.

Note from Holly: Brushing the fillo with butter after you’ve put it on the walnut mixture can be tricky – use a light hand with the brush, and don’t worry if you tear the sheet. Nobody will notice.

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Posted by on May 29, 2012 in bake, guest post, recipes

 

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Hoi Thawt

Hoi Thawt

This dish started with a short description on a food blog. It sounded like an intriguing combination so I googled that shit. All that came up was one or two old photos on flickr from the same restaurant covered in the blog. The go-to reference cookbooks were also lacking in further information on this dish. However, from the photos and description, it looked to be a combination of techniques I was already familiar with so I decided to wing it.

You will observe from the gallery below that I worked up two versions. The first attempt was pretty good but there was definitely room for improvement. I think I got it down on the second try. Done correctly, the dish is a great combination of textures: the fleshiness of the mussels, the crisp crunch of fresh bean sprouts & scallions, the fried crunch of the crepes & shallots, the custardy texture of the eggs and the unfried sides of the crepes. There is also a good balance of flavors, from brine to citrus to fermented funk, with a heavy emphasis on umami. I think this one goes in the repertoire.

PRO TIP: Cook up the leftover crepes & dip them in the mussels’ simmering liquid.

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Posted by on May 18, 2012 in boil, condiment, dinner, recipes

 

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Ruckus Sammich

Ruckus Sammich

I had more noodles lines up for all y’all but seeing as how today is 4/20, here’s the druggiest recipe I had in the archives. I’m calling it a “Ruckus Sammich” because much like the Wu-Tang Clan, it is chock full ofdistinct flavors all jockeying for prominence while at the same time coming together in a harmonious whole. This sandwich ain’t nuthin’ to fuck wit.

(N.B. It is unlikely you have all the ingredients listed in the recipe at hand. Substitutions are noted, but each will impact the overall flavor, which is carefully balanced lest it become an incoherent pile of slop. No substitutions have been listed for certain ingredients e.g. the peanut butter powder and Chinese raisin bread because the alternatives–peanut butter and domestic raisin bread, respectively–have much stronger flavors than those called for in the recipe. Basically, not sure how useful this recipe will be to anyone but here it is anyway.)

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Posted by on April 20, 2012 in lunch, quick, recipes, sautee, toast

 

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